Licorice Root Extract for Skin: The Botanical Brightener Women Over 40 Are Using

When it comes to treating dark spots, age spots, and uneven skin tone after 40, the skincare industry usually pushes aggressive chemical exfoliants or harsh prescription bleaching agents. But one of the most effective, clinically proven brightening ingredients isn’t synthesized in a lab—it’s extracted from the root of a perennial legume.

Glycyrrhiza glabra, commonly known as licorice root, has been used in traditional medicine for millennia to treat everything from stomach ulcers to inflammation. In modern dermatology, however, licorice root extract has emerged as a premier botanical treatment for hyperpigmentation, offering serious brightening power without the severe irritation associated with older treatments like hydroquinone [4].

Here is exactly how licorice root extract works at the cellular level to restore a clear, even complexion to mature skin.

The Secret Weapon: Glabridin

The power of licorice root extract lies in a highly active, oil-soluble compound called glabridin. In clinical studies, glabridin has been shown to be exceptionally effective at fading hyperpigmentation and defending the skin against UV-induced discoloration [1].

Pigmentation in the skin is created by melanocytes (pigment cells) through a process called melanogenesis. The bottleneck in this process is an enzyme called tyrosinase, which your skin needs to produce melanin. When you are exposed to UV light, or experience hormonal shifts (like those during perimenopause), tyrosinase activity spikes, leading to dark spots and uneven tone.

The bottleneck in this process is an enzyme called tyrosinase, which your skin needs to produce melanin.

Glabridin is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor. It safely binds to the enzyme, blocking its ability to synthesize melanin [2]. What makes glabridin so unique is its gentle mechanism of action: in landmark in-vitro studies, researchers found that glabridin inhibited tyrosinase activity without affecting DNA synthesis or causing cellular toxicity [1]. It simply tells the pigment factory to slow down.

A Powerful Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory

Dark spots aren’t just caused by the sun; they are heavily driven by inflammation (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). As we age, our skin’s baseline level of inflammation rises—a phenomenon researchers call “inflammaging”—which makes mature skin particularly prone to stubborn, lingering discoloration.

Beyond its brightening effects, licorice root extract is a formidable anti-inflammatory agent. Glabridin and another compound in the root called licochalcone A inhibit the production of superoxide anions and cyclooxygenase—key drivers of the inflammatory cascade in the skin [1,3].

By neutralizing free radicals and soothing localized inflammation, licorice root extract helps prevent new dark spots from forming while simultaneously treating the ones you already have. It is an ideal ingredient for women dealing with hyperpigmentation who also have sensitive, easily irritated skin.

Clinical trials of Nanoretinol® show it is +232% more effective in collagen recovery and +73% more effective in elastin recovery than conventional retinol.

The Perfect Synergy: Licorice Root and Retinol

While licorice root extract excels at stopping new pigment from forming at the enzymatic level, it cannot physically push existing pigment out of the skin. To completely clear stubborn age spots, you must pair a tyrosinase inhibitor with an ingredient that accelerates cellular turnover.

This is why dermatologists frequently recommend combining botanical brighteners with a high-quality retinoid.

Retinol works by speeding up the rate at which your skin sheds old, pigment-loaded cells and replaces them with fresh, even-toned tissue. However, because traditional retinol can disrupt the skin barrier and cause inflammation—which can paradoxically trigger more dark spots—delivery method is critical.

This is exactly why Nanoretinol® was engineered. By encapsulating a precise 0.2% concentration of retinol in biomimetic lipid nanoparticles, Nanoretinol® slips through the epithelial barrier without triggering an inflammatory response.

Once inside the dermis, it goes to work. Clinical trials of Nanoretinol® show it is +232% more effective in collagen recovery and +73% more effective in elastin recovery than conventional retinol. In just 56 days, users saw a 61% increase in skin firmness and a 56% increase in elasticity.

When you combine the targeted pigment-blocking power of licorice root extract with the profound cellular renewal and collagen-building capability of Nanoretinol®, you create a comprehensive, 360-degree approach to anti-aging. The licorice root calms the pigment factories, while the Nanoretinol® clears the canvas and rebuilds the structural foundation beneath it.

Adding It to Your Routine

Licorice root extract is highly stable and plays exceptionally well with other skincare ingredients. Look for it in water-based serums or lightweight moisturizers applied during your morning routine, always followed by a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Then, reserve your Nanoretinol® for your evening routine to maximize cellular repair while you sleep.

References

1. Yokota T, Nishio H, Kubota Y, Mizoguchi M. “The inhibitory effect of glabridin from licorice extracts on melanogenesis and inflammation.” Pigment Cell Res. 1998;11(6):355-361. PMID: 9870547
2. Simmler C, Pauli GF, Chen SN. “Phytochemistry and biological properties of glabridin.” Fitoterapia. 2013;90:160-184. PMID: 23850540
3. Cerulli A, Masullo M, Montoro P, Piacente S. “Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients.” Cosmetics. 2022;9(1):7. doi:10.3390/cosmetics9010007
4. Draelos ZD. “Skin lightening preparations and the hydroquinone controversy.” Dermatol Ther. 2007;20(5):308-313. PMID: 18045355